Philadelphia Travel Guide

Taking Afternoon Tea at Nineteen: The 19th-floor cafe-in-the-round at the grand Park Hyatt at the Bellevue recently reinstituted tea service, and little girls and their mommies are getting out their white gloves in anticipation. The bird's-eye view from the cafe's impossibly tall windows is spectacular—enhancing the jambon royal sandwiches and chocolate shortbread.
Visiting the Barnes Foundation: The Barnes Foundation Gallery in Merion houses the most important private collection of Impressionist and early French modern paintings in the world, displaying more Cezannes than all the museums of France put together. The building was designed by Paul Philippe Cret, and is amazing, not only for its lovely design, but also because Albert Barnes was meticulous about displaying the works, often juxtaposing them with objets such as antique iron locks or African tribal masks. It appears the museum will move to Center City Philadelphia in the coming years, so schedule your visit to the current location now: You may not get another chance.
Wandering Through Fairmount Park: It would take dozens of outings to fully explore the 100 miles of trails in this 8,900-acre giant of an urban park—some of them are virtually unchanged since Revolutionary times. We'll settle for gazing at the hundreds of flame azaleas that bloom behind the Art Museum in spring, special visits to Shofuso Japanese teahouse, and winter strolls along the Wissahickon Creek.
Gallery Hopping on First Friday: On the first Friday of every month, the galleries, stores, and studios of Old City—just north of Independence National Historical Park—remain open with refreshments and artists on hand until 9pm. Wander along the cobblestone streets, popping in where you fancy, before a night out in this happening part of town.
Stepping Back in Time in Historic Philadelphia: The reclamation of this country's Colonial capital has been nearly miraculous, from the Liberty Bell's gleaming new home to the renovation of hundreds of row houses with their distinctive brickwork and 18th-century formal gardens (and welcoming benches). But the costumed town criers with free maps and the Revolutionary War-era street theater really bring the experience to life. Just wander; they'll find you.

Cliché-sounding statement number one: Philadelphia is a lovely city. I live here, in a tiny fifth-floor walk-up studio on 8th Street, between Pine and Lombard. When I look out my back window, I can see the steeple of the old Pine Street church George Washington attended. Beyond the steeple are shiny-windowed high-rise apartments. Beyond them are blipping lights of planes coasting over the Delaware River into Philadelphia International Airport. The view from the front of my apartment is of 19th-century rooftops, rising skyscrapers—and a single roof deck with a pair of sunbathing poodles. Read More

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