Situated on the banks of the Gomti River, Lucknow, capital of Uttar Pradesh, has a relatively calm disposition, its urbane gentility and relative absence of beggars and touts a welcome change from the heady assault that so marks the experience in more popular North Indian cities. Lucknavis are in fact given to a peculiar strain of pomposity that seems entirely out of place in the 21st century—locals call out to you in pukka high-falutin' English "Good evening" at three in the afternoon, and a firm "How are you, gentleman?" is popular among locals keen to demonstrate their eloquent English, no matter how limited it really is.
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